Animal
Control Officers (ACOs) & others use “cage traps” in a variety of sizes to
catch domestic & wild animals in a safe, humane manner. Check on availability before you need
one. The cage front has a bi-fold type
door which “locks” in an up/open position when trap is “set.” A “footplate” is located about 3/4 of the
way into the cage. When stepped on, it
releases a side rod, which allows the front door to quickly close on an angle,
trapping the dog. If the proper size
cage isn’t used, the door will attempt to close but might come down to rest on
their rump instead. It will startle but
not hurt. When the dog backs out and
clears the door, it will spring shut.
Where to set the cage? A good
spot is in the immediate area where you have one or more verified
sightings.
Don’t delay. Locate a resident or business owner who will
let you set up the cage on their property, ideally using same areas where the
dog has been seen. Choose “easy” access
spots for monitoring, yet private - for the dog’s sake and to avoid prying eyes of children & adults. Ask an ACO to
help you explain to people how the trap works and its importance to this
rescue. Established law sets minimum
times required to check traps. Checking
more frequently is highly recommended and necessary, especially in severe or
cold weather. Be advised that area
residents will not appreciate their pets being locked up in your cage. Make sure the cage is on steady ground and
doesn’t wobble. Suggestions: Use wet
dog food with a portion of: meatballs, roast beef, stinky cheese, hotdogs,
etc.
De-bone any meat you use, don’t risk someone’s dog
choking. Don’t use cat food. It attracts too many felines as well as
skunks, possums and raccoons. Precious
time is wasted when a trap has “unwanted” “guests.” Set food at rear of trap on shallow plate. Hang a hotdog inside, from the top &
near the rear. Put a few small bits of
food outside trap leading inside. Don’t
overload area outside trap with food, a common mistake. The goal is to entice a hungry dog into the
cage. Put in a water bowl. Cages with a
rear door option make it easier to change food & release unwanted
guests.
Tip - Use
handicap grabber tongs to reach/adjust items in cages. Dogs don’t like walking on wire grates. Using a towel, cover the bottom grates up to
and over, but not under, the footplate.
Do not
have items sticking out the front entrance as they will jam, prevent the door
from closing securely and make it possible for the dog to get out. Items to place inside: a section of the
dog’s blanket, dog hair, toy, same items from other dog in house, owner’s used
T-shirt or pillowcase. Nothing familiar
to use? Use scents/hair from another
dog. Lost male dog? Use facecloth swiped with urine of female
dog or one in heat. Place a straight
stick through the bars about 2 inches in front of the footplate and about 3
inches up, so the dog has to step over it, placing paw directly on footplate
(adjust for dog’s size). Watch rod on
side of cage.
Cages are
generally covered to protect the dog from sun, rain, chilling winds &
snow. Camouflage with dark green or
brown shower curtain, tarp or other sturdy cloth. A bale of straw can be pulled apart in blocks and used to
insulate the trap and make it cozy.
Cover most of cage except front door area. Position a few pine branches at the back end, but keep it open so
dog can see through and food scent drifts out.
Place small branches & twigs on top to weight it and give it a
natural and “den-like” appearance. Toss
leaves, not sticks, just inside the entrance over wire grates still exposed.
Secure covers & branches so they don’t fall into entrance, jam the door or
rod. Always test trap function. Anyone who monitors the cage should be
comfortable with releasing and/or re-setting the trap. If not, assign “duties.” List two names with phone numbers for
“emergency” contacts on 8 x 11 paper.
Put in protective sheet/Ziploc bag & secure to cage with twist
ties.
Lostdogsearch@aol.com 10/2002