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Animal
Control Officers (ACOs) & others use “cage traps” in a variety of sizes to
catch domestic & wild animals in a safe, humane manner. Check on availability before you need one. The cage front has
a bi-fold type door which “locks” in an up/open position when trap is
“set.” A “footplate” is located about
3/4 of the way into the cage. When
stepped on, it releases a side rod, which allows the front door to quickly
close on an angle, trapping the dog. If
the proper size cage isn’t used, the door will attempt to close but might come
down to rest on their rump instead. It
will startle but not hurt. When the dog
backs out and clears the door, it will spring shut. Where
to set the cage? A good spot is in the
immediate area where you have one or more verified sightings.
Don’t delay. Locate
a resident or business owner who will let you set up the cage on their
property, ideally using same areas where the dog has been seen. Choose “easy” access spots for monitoring,
yet private - for the dog’s sake and
to avoid prying eyes of children & adults. Ask an ACO to help you explain
to people how the trap works and its importance to this rescue. Established law sets minimum times required to
check traps. Checking more frequently is
highly recommended and necessary, especially in severe or cold weather. Be advised that area residents will not
appreciate their pets being locked up in your cage. Make sure the cage is on steady ground and doesn’t
wobble. Suggestions: Use wet dog food
with a portion of: meatballs, roast beef, stinky cheese, hotdogs, etc.
De-bone any meat you use, don’t
risk someone’s dog choking. Don’t use
cat food. It attracts too many felines
as well as skunks, possums and raccoons.
Precious time is wasted when a trap has “unwanted” “guests.” Set food at rear of trap on shallow
plate. Hang a hotdog inside, from the
top & near the rear. Put a few small
bits of food outside trap leading inside.
Don’t overload area outside trap with food, a common mistake. The goal is to entice a hungry dog into the
cage. Put in a water bowl. Cages with a
rear door option make it easier to change food & release unwanted
guests.
Tip
- Use handicap grabber tongs to reach/adjust items in cages. Dogs don’t like walking on wire grates. Using a towel, cover the bottom grates up to
and over, but not under, the footplate.
Do
not have items sticking out the front entrance as they will jam, prevent
the door from closing securely and make it possible for the dog to get
out. Items to place inside: a section of
the dog’s blanket, dog hair, toy, same items from other dog in house, owner’s
used T-shirt or pillowcase. Nothing
familiar to use? Use scents/hair from
another dog. Lost male dog? Use facecloth swiped with urine of female dog
or one in heat. Place a straight stick
through the bars about 2 inches in front of the footplate and about 3 inches
up, so the dog has to step over it, placing paw directly on footplate (adjust
for dog’s size). Watch rod on side of
cage.
Cages are generally covered to protect the
dog from sun, rain, chilling winds & snow.
Camouflage with dark green or brown shower curtain, tarp or other sturdy
cloth. A bale of straw can be pulled
apart in blocks and used to insulate the trap and make it cozy. Cover most of cage except front door
area. Position a few pine branches at
the back end, but keep it open so dog can see through and food scent drifts
out. Place small branches & twigs on
top to weight it and give it a natural and “den-like” appearance. Toss leaves, not sticks, just inside the
entrance over wire grates still exposed. Secure covers & branches so they
don’t fall into entrance, jam the door or rod. Always test trap function. Anyone who monitors the cage should be
comfortable with releasing and/or re-setting the trap. If not, assign “duties.” List two names with phone numbers for
“emergency” contacts on 8 x 11 paper.
Put in protective sheet/Ziploc bag & secure to cage with twist
ties.
Lostdogsearch@aol.com 10/2002